Friday, July 08, 2005

Balthazar

Balthazar
80 Spring Street - Map
Between Crosby Street and Broadway
(212) 965-1785
French Brasserie

By restaurateur Keith McNally (also of Pastis, Pravda, Balthazar Bakery and others), this SoHo gem draws flocks of the rich and famous, and mundane as well. While Balthazar is known for their breakfasts and brunches, chefs de cuisine Riad Nasr and Lee Hanson, spare nothing on their dinner menu. While their menu is not overwhelmingly packed, each dish sounds so delicious that it makes it difficult to choose what you would like to eat more.

Having finally patronized this restaurant back in March for my 24th birthday (it was a long-standing desire to finally eat at this well-known establishment), this restaurant made it to my Top 5 list, superceding even Abigael's (which was tastefully chosen for my 21st birthday). While I try to not write reviews for restaurants I haven't been to recently, the experience was so positive, that it remains firmly etched in my mind.

Fearing a lack of reservation, I made mine a month in advance for a party of 8. I generally don't make reservations so far in advance, but I heeded their website's advice - and luckily so since when I called it in, it was apparently the last one left for that day (Sunday evening is apparently a very popular evening dining time).

We started our evening by ordering a few appetizers for the table, which consisted of their Balthazar Salad, Warm Goat Cheese and Carmelized Onion Tart, and their Saffron Risotto. Their appetizers were simply ambrosial, particularly the Balthazar Salad. It was a delicate balance of various ingredients, including but not limited to asparagus and fennel, yet what I found to give the salad that extra umph of surprise was the truffle vinaigrette. It added such a wonderful, earthy dimension to the salad, with a sweet yet earthy, and tart finish - which was just plain fun to eat, combined with the texture of the leafy lettuces, and firm asparagus.

The tarts were a whole new chapter. The musky aroma and flavor of the cheese made my mouth water and yearn for another bite - coupled with the sweetness of the carmelized onions provided for a heavenly experience. The oohs and aaahs around the table as we each sampled from it was a wonderful accompaniment to the savory flavors of the tart.

Finally, the risotto...Ahh, the risotto...All future risotto's are now forever ruined for me. This dish was so perfectly prepared - creamy, delicious, heavenly. The saffron created a beautifully golden hue to the dish, serving as a beacon for the eyes and hands. We were all drawn to it when it arrived at our table. After the round of appetizers, I couldn't wait for the entree to be served.

To accompany the entree, I had ordered their 2001 St. Joseph's Offerus, grown in their Bordeaux region, which was one of the wines recommended by the very French waiter, who wasn't standoffish at all, and was particularly accomodating to everyone's requests and questions (and substitutions). A wine like this, I have not ever experienced. It makes the others I've had almost pale in comparison. It was so complex, so robust, so full-bodied, fruity, and satisfying. It went exceptionally well with the Duck Confit that I had ordered.

This being my first real experience with duck, I am sure I did not make a mistake. It was so buttery in texture, the meat practically fell off the bone. A small part of my brain was desperately trying to get my attention - warning me that with every bite thus far, my arteries were slowly hardening - I paid it no mind. Each bite was worth it. The flavor was so unique and distinct, I find it difficult to find words to convey the awesomeness of every bite I took. Served over a bed of apple chips, the crunchy apple's went exceptionally well with the buttery duck. The chefs clearly knew what they were doing.

For dessert, I ordered (of course) the Creme Brulee. I now know how Creme Brulee should taste, and have an excellent barometer with which to compare all Creme Brulees against. Deceptively heavy looking, a proper Creme Brulee should be anything but. It should have a deliciously crusted carmelized sugar top, and a light, yet rich creamy custard. The vanilla flavor of the custard infused my mouth, accompanied by the carmelized sugar crust on top made for a wonderful contrast of textures. I've sampled some of their other desserts that others had ordered. Not disappointing in the least - sensory overload more like it. Their desserts are designed to stimulate every sense. The display is magnificent, the aroma robust, taste - exquisite, texture - superb, and the sound of people enjoying it....mmmmmm.....

To say the least - I implore everyone to go to this restaurant at least once in their life - it would not be a regrettable experience!

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