Monday, October 16, 2006

The Stanton Social

The Stanton Social
99 Stanton Street - Map
Between Orchard Street and Ludlow Street
New York
(212) 995-0099
Tapas/Small Plates, Eclectic Cuisine

Gastronomes! Gourmands! Welcome to your wet dream come true! As a self-proclaimed foodie, I always run into the problem of so many delicious things on the menu that I would love to try, but really only being able to order one thing, and resigning myself to tasting any accompanying guests' dishes. Now, if I didn't worry about my figure and bank account, this really wouldn't be a problem at all, as I would make sure to make as many return visits to any particular establishment until I was satisfied. However, if any of you share in my plight, then this is the answer.

Through the brilliant collaboration of long-time friends Chris Santos (the chef and owner), Richard Wolf (owner of chic chic lounge and restaurant Tao), and Peter Kane (of the infamous Happy Ending) comes a sexy, elegant, and dark allure restaurant-lounge called The Stanton Social. The idea is brilliant - the entire menu is portioned as appetizer-size designed to be shared. This essentially translates to - the more people with whom you dine, the more variety you get to choose from!

This being my second visit (the first time I went was just with one friend), I learned from previous experience that there's strength in numbers - and this time I doubled it. The Stanton Social truly embodies the new Lower East Side look: mysterious, dark, sexy, and a little dangerous. Crossing the threshold brings you to a dimly lit, and sensuous environment. I particularly loved the wall at the far back which was transformed into a white backlit wine rack with angled shelves, and the white-painted brick on the ground level extends the feel of an airy space. I felt very comfortable in the darker hues of the décor: browns, ambers and luscious raspberry reds.

The upper level has a beautiful bar, which splits the left side from the right side. The left side is outfitted with bench-style seating along the walls, with tables and chairs opposite them. The walls are decorated with creamy yellow rows of dangling threads resembling a 20's-style flapper dress, and along one wall are small hand mirrors of various shapes and sizes hung at about eye level. The right side is more casual with small booth-type sections created by low-seated leather couches, and small coffee tables as a center-piece for more casual dining and drinking. This side of the walls were decorated in a subtle and sensual flowery wallpaper.

As usual, the wait staff were more than just polite. They treat their clientéle with the utmost respect, and definitely give you the impression that they're there to please YOU. I was the last to arrive from my party, and I was immediately escorted to them at the bar, where they were schmoozing it up and having a drink of wine. When I joined them, we were then quickly seated and presented with their menus: food, cocktails, and wine. I particularly loved the hard wood menus which gave the place a more substantial, opulent feel.

Since we were a party of 4, we ended up ordering 10 different dishes and 4 different desserts. Since there was SO much delicious food, I will only discuss the hilights that truly tickled either my or my friends' fancy. Due to such a wonderful selection, I would like to point out that anyone's taste can be satisfied here.

One of the first courses that was brought to our table was the beef carpaccio. Deep purple, thin slices of beef arranged slightly overlapping each other, topped in the center with a small mound of micro arugala - almost resembling spring watercress, with a contrasting sprinkling of reggiano cheese. Since the carpaccio is more about texture than flavor, the pairing of the sharp and salty cheese and the peppery arugala went beautifully with the smoothness of the carpaccio.

Another dish that was worthy of note was the Potato and Goat Cheese Pierogies. They were served with caramelized onions and truffle crème fraîche. These were little heaven bundles. Silky creamy potato centers, with the musky goat cheese flavor. Then the addition of the rounded sweetness of the caramelized onions - and anyone who knows me knows that truffle in anything makes it taste so much better, and I think the earthiness pairs really well with the goat cheese and the
crème fraîche has a very light sourness to it to tie it all together into a perfect bite. This was a beautifully concerted dish. HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.

Now, here's a dish that I thought was just ok, but everyone else seemed to LOVE. It was their Wild Plum and Brie Quesadilla with red chile honey. I concede that this was just a matter of personal taste. I like brie. I like quesadillas. I even like plums sometimes. I'm personally not partial to having cooked fruits in savory food, although I did find that the plum added just a light hint of sweetness, and really added more in texture than it did in flavor. The red chile honey was really more responsible for that flowery sweetness, and a cute subtle zing of spicyness from the chile - but I definitely would not use the term spicy to describe it. The brie was deliciously smooth. In the end, I was outvoted by the oohs and aahhs of everyone else while I was just ok with the dish.

Now we come to the dessert. There were 2 that struck me in particular. The Stanton Social Chocolate Tasting and the Il Laboratorio del Gelato Ice Creams and Sorbets. The chocolate tasting came with a small sample of molten chocolate cake, panna cotta, mousse, peppermint patties, and sorbet. The ice creams and sorbet were a sampling each of espresso,
crème fraîche, and ginger.

Of the chocolate tastings, they were all richly decadent, and I savored every bite, but one of the samples in particular really riled me up. It was the molten chocolate cake! It had this chile spicy kick you got only at the end at the back of your throat after you let it swirl over the entire surface of your tongue to maximize the full experience - savoring every flavor from it. The spicy kick was not unpleasant at all, in fact, it was addicting, I kept taking more and more tastes from it just to experience the ride again!

From the ice creams, the one that I really took a fond liking to was the ginger ice cream. Ginger is a very funny root. It has an intense sweet and sharply tangy flavor and aroma. Its dual personality makes it unique but allows it to be paired nicely with the right creative angle. In this case, the ginger ice cream sat atop a small nest of crystallized ginger that only enhanced and counterbalanced the smooth gelato. It was the kind of experience where you savored the smooth texture of the ice cream in your mouth, and experienced the flavor deep in your nose. The most fun was when I took a spoonful of the molten chocolate cake, and dipped in to the ginger ice cream and ate them together. The deep richness of the chocolate was cut by the sweetness of the ginger, and the tang of the ginger infused the spicy kick and created something completely new. It was fun! Alchemy at the table!

In conclusion, this was by far one of the most fun and interesting restaurants I have been to. The chef is not afraid to try new and exotic things, which I find to be very attractive. It's the allure of the new and exciting experience, an adventure in your mouth. The décor is elegant and sexy, with the wait staff to match in both looks and demeanor. This was an excellent experience, I recommend it more for large groups looking for a great time, or for couples looking to have a great and intimate shared experience. The Stanton Social - kudos!

Wednesday, August 09, 2006

Bombay Talkie

Bombay Talkie
189 9th Avenue - Map
Between W 21st and W 22nd Streets
New York
(212) 242-6366
Fine Indian Dining

If you think you've had good Indian food - you haven't! One thing New York City doesn't lack, is its selection of Indian restaurants. Now, I admit that Indian food tends to be a very selective cuisine for most people - some LOVE it, some HATE it, some are scared of it, but very few can just take it or leave it (except, maybe, Indians?). What I loved most about Bombay Talkie was that this was Indian food I've never had before. Their menu carried many recognizable dishes from other Indian establishments, but the execution in the food preparation was superb, perfect, and excellent!

First, I would like to discuss how well Bombay Talkie fits in with the trendy, chic Chelsea neighborhood. With Chelsea's large gay demographic (read: extremely critical and judgemental), it's clear that it passes with flying colors - even the bichiest of them would agree. The restaurant has two levels: the ground level has the bar at the far end, with a white background cocktail menu written out in hot pink, and screens showing various Indian pictures. The wall on the far left is one long mural depicting a bunch of people. In fact, the entire restaurant is adorned with large-scale paintings of Bollywood-esque scenes - all rich in color and detail. The music in the background is upbeat and distinctly of that region, which adds such a nice touch. I totally felt like there was this great fusion with chic New York style and ancient Indian culture. They also have an upstairs section with additional seating, and a nice view of 9th Avenue.

I was meeting a friend for dinner here, and it was decided that instead of ordering entrées, which were undoubtedly delicious, we'd order a number of appetizers, chutney, and naan and that way we'd get the full spectrum and not overeat (which is VERY easy to do here). I would also like to take this opportunity to discuss their menu of Specialty Cocktails. I only ordered one, and I tasted my friend's and they were both really good.

I ordered the "Satyam Shivam Sundaram" which translates into "Truth is Beauty." It was made with jasmine tea that was infused with fresh apple cider, mixed with Apple Pucker, 99 Banana, bacardi and fresh lime juice and garnished with a sliver of "drunken apple." This was a deliciously sweet, not overpowering, and wonderful zing aftertaste cocktail! All the flavors melded well with each other, however, the jasmine undertone was heady and alluring. My friend ordered the "Ankur" cocktail, which translates into "Seedling." This cocktail was a mix of pomegranate juice, tequila, Rose's lime juice, and contreau. Not nearly as sweet as my drink, but deliciously pomegranate - and very in vogue with the new pomegranate juice fad. Me? I like fresh pomegranate, seeds and all - but this drink was a lot of fun, and for pomegranate lovers - this IS the way to go.

For dinner, we ordered their Papdi Chat (Beggar's Purses), and tart lamb Dosa from their "Street Bites" section, and tamarind chutney and grape and mint raita from their "curbside" section. We also placed two orders of naan - one each of cilantro and red chili flakes, and onion seeds and sesame seeds) - and two vegetable dishes: chole peshawari and bhindi. Ok, I know it's a lot, and it all sounds foreign, but don't worry.

Our friendly, cute, and knowledgable waitress was very helpful in taking our order. When the first course of papdi chat and dosa came out, we were eager to dip in to the dishes. The dosa came served with one white coconut chutney and one red coconut chutney. Dosas are a rice and lentil flour crepe that's stuffed, and in this case it was tart lamb. For those of you who are familiar with lamb, you can understand what this may have tasted like, but what I found most wonderful was that the flavor of the lamb wasn't lost in the seasoning, and in fact was enhanced by it. Despite the lamb stuffing being ground, it still had the lamb texture: soft, tender, almost buttery. Each of the chutneys went deliciously well with the dosa.

The papdi chat are these cute little, bite-sized bundles. They're small flour shells stuffed with potatoes and chick peas and individually topped with a tamarind and yogurt sauce. They were easily one-bite servings, but can still neatly be bitten in two pieces. The flour shell was lightly crispy, and the stuffing of potato and chick pea was soft and silky, the tamarind and yogurt sauce gave it a sweet, tangy zing while still not losing the flavors of the potatoes and chick peas.

Once we were done with this course, they brought us the chole peshawari and the bhindi. The chole peshawari is a dish of spicy garbanzo beans in a ginger-garlic paste, green chilies and coriander, and the bhindi is Masala sautéed okra (I happen to be very partial to okra). Both of these dishes were interesting. I enjoyed the complex flavors of the chole peshawari, combined with the simple-by-comparison texture of the garbanzo bean. The coriander definitely had the end-note flavor of the dish, and as for spicy, to my palate I consider it to be moderate. The bhindi, by contrast, was all about the texture, and still had a delicious flavor. The okra was soft, and pasty, but still had distinct-okra shell texture. I also suspect there were pieces of eggplant in it as well, which also went very nicely with the okra.

In true Indian fashion, we ripped of pieces from the naan, dabbed fillings of either the chole peshawari or bhindi, and then topped with either the tamarind chutney or grape and mint raita. The grape and mint raita is essentially a yogurt sauce with pieces of green grape and mint. Almost like a Greek tzatziki - but entirely different in flavor. The tamarind chutney of course had that wonderful tamarind flavor, sweet and tangy, and a beautifully rich amberish-brown color, and also had ginger, crushed red chilies, and jaggery (an unrefined Indian sugar) in it. The naan also deserves special mention. They were light, malleable, very flavorful and almost buttery. Either or both types are an excellent choice.

To end the dinner, I ordered a glass of their Chai which they were kind enough to make unsweetened, to which I added a packet of equal (I know, maybe I shoulda just had it with good ol' sugar, but I was going out drinking after dinner - so I figured I'd save on SOME calories). Overall, I loved this restaurant. The décor was fun, the waitstaff excellent, and the food superb. The thing I enjoyed most about Bombay Talkie is that they didn't fall prey to the same pitfalls as other restaurants serving similar cuisine - they flavors of every dish were distinct, and didn't melt into one of 3 basic flavors. I loved that I was able to discern each flavor and texture, while still appreciating the full experience. Also, the drinks are great too! This restaurant comes highly recommended!

Momofuku

Momofuku
171 First Avenue - Map
Between E 10th and E 11th Streets
New York
(212) 475-7899
Japanese Noodle Bar

Momofuku, meaning "lucky peach" in Japanese is a cute little noodle bar in the East Village. Don't let it's small size fool you though, because their dishes definitely throw a punch! Their rigidly crafted menu is varied, but does not allow for any substitutions - ever. This isn't quite a vegetarian-friendly restaurant, with the exception of one dish, the Ginger Scallion, which I personally cannot attest to. Also, there's a $15 minimum on credit card usage.

Upon entering this almost hidden restautant, the construction is very much that of a bar. There's a long, narrow raised table with stools on either side, that connects to a "bar" area right by the exposed kitchen. There is also some seating along the right-hand wall, and everyone sits next to EVERYONE. Very cozy. This is definitely not considered a fine-dining establishment, but definitely serves up a great experience.

On this particular occassion, I was having lunch with an old friend before having to head to class, and after hearing RAVE reviews from a new acquaintance - Jennifer Lynn Pelka, a personal chef - I came to see that Momofuku really is all that it's cracked up to be.

My friend and I decided to split one dish, and each order our own. So, we ended up splitting their Seaweed Cured Maine Diver Sea Scallops which was beautifully served with a small round of baby arugala, cherries, and a lemon purée. This dish was definitely interesting. Most scallops I've eaten were seared and had a nice brown caramalization on the ends, this, however, was essentially "raw" but it was cured. It had a much softer texture, and lacked the suppleness one normally sees in cooked scallops. They were also thinly sliced, which made it somewhat difficult to handle with chopsticks - FUN, but difficult. They had a very nice flavor, the seaweed imparted that rich umami flavor, and it was surprisingly sweet. Not sugary-sweet, but it had a sweet undertone. Most pronounced about it was its texture which was soft. When I added some of the lemon purée the dish was transformed completely! The zest of the lemon cut into the sweet undertone, and completely fostered and built up the scallop. The arugala served to add another peppery dimension. This was definitely a dish meant to be eaten with all of its components.

I decided to order their Momofuku Ramen (which Jennifer told me must be the first thing I ever eat there), described as their Berkshire Pork combo and a poached egg. This was a beautiful dish! A large bowl filled with broth and ramen noodles, the far end of the bowl adorned with two sheets of seaweed, pieces of brown pork swimming around the warm pool of liquid and a perfectly poached egg at the center, hinting at the rich yellow sauce beneath its fragile white cage. I couldn't wait to dip into that egg! I selected a piece of pork, and dabbed at the center of the egg, and watched as the vibrant orangey-yellow yolk burst out and oozed over into the soup, slowly mixing in and spreading outward. It was delicious! The ramen noodles had a wonderful texture: soft, supple, slippery, fun. The pork was almost overwhelmingly flavorful on its own, but when mixed with the blander broth and noodles, it seasoned the mouthful perfectly. Although in the heat of the summer, it's probably not wise to order a hot soup dish, this was definitely worth it. To accompany it, I followed Jennifer's instructions once again, and ordered their Hitachino White Ale. This went so flawlessly well with the dish, I wouldn't be surprised if they were meant to go together. The ale was light, and had a sweet undertone as well, but characterized by distinct flavors of earthy yeast and hops.

My friend ordered their Chicken & Egg which was served with pieces of smoked chicken, a poached egg, scallions, and rice. This was also a wonderful dish. The rice was light and fluffy, and very flavorful. The chicken was absolutely delicious. They were tender, and flavorful, and not too salty - something I've almost come to expect in smoked foods. I don't have much to say about this dish, other than it's beautiful composition, and delicious flavors. If you're looking for a pork-less dish, this makes a wonderful alternative.

Overall, I enjoyed myself at Momofuku. The inexpensive menu, and the novel experience it affords its patrons is worth at least one trip.

Wednesday, July 26, 2006

Thalassa

Thalassa
179 Franklin Street - Map
Between Greenwhich St and Hudson St
New York
(212) 941-7661
Fine Greek Cuisine

Thalassa....already the allure of its name is captivating. Residing in New York City's TriBeCa (Triangle Below Canal) district, which in recent years has become synonymous with the TriBeCa Film Festival instituted by Jane Rosenthal and Robert De Niro as a forum for international film makers and the general public to develop a new appreciation for film and its impact on society. Also, it brought tons of money back into Lower Manhattan. Demographically, the neighborhood is mainly comprised of young yuppy families, tired of the pace of SoHo and looking for quieter grounds to raise their children.

Now that the little history lesson is over, let's discuss the restaurant. Approching Thalassa, you pass large, warehouse galleries of all sorts of artistic things ranging from outdoor sculptures, furniture and the more traditional art pieces like paintings and the like. Given the neighborhood, it comes as no surprise that Thalassa used to be a warehouse for fine Greek olives and cheeses. In the distance, you see a large blue rectangular flag with a large, white italicized Theta as a beacon to the restaurant.

Mounting a few short steps, and passing the threshhold, you enter an environment that isn't Greek-in-your-face (like if you were to walk into an Irish pub and be completely inundated with Irish icons and symbols), but rather a chic, Greece-meets-New-York-City sleek sexiness. The proprietors took the feel of Greece, and married it to a distilled and refined New York elegance.

As soon as you walk in, there's a curved bar to your right, with deep blue lighted panels along the wall, and an array of alcoholic beverages in their bottles. Right past the bar is a large mounting of ice with various sea creatures on ice - fish, lobster, crab. I don't think they were real, but they added a nice cool contrast. Deeper in and to the right, was a dividing wall with large spaces cut out from it with large, conical olive-oil containers that were traditionally used in shipping oil, sitting in metal frames which were used to pot plants with leaves sprouting out from the opening. There was also downstairs seating, which I was told was a tad darker than the already dim lighting on the main floor.

On this particular occassion, I came to Thalassa to take advantage of their $35 prix fixe Restuarant Week menu, along with 4 friends. While a one of my party and I were waiting for the rest to arrive, we sat at the bar and decided to order a drink. I asked to see their wine list, and I was pleased to see a very extensive By-the-Glass list of Red, Rosé, and White - all of which were Greek wines. They had a further extensive By-the-Bottle list of various wines from all over the world - no continent or region was spared! When in Greece....do as the Greeks do....so I asked the knowledgable bartender what she would recommend for a glass of white wine on that particularly humid day (ok, I know it's NYC - and we rarely have NICE, unhumid days, but this day was particularly oppressive). She recommended I order their Lagorthi from Antanopoulos "Adoli Ghis" 2005. My accompanying friend ordered the same. The wine had an almost water-quality clarity, with a very faint cream tinge. It had a buttery, caramel milky aroma with a contrasting minerally sharp-dry finish but with a smooth body to soften the transition.

When our party finally arrived, we were seated at a large round table in the back of the restaurant along a wall that had various bottles of Greek wine and artifacts. We were immediately served freshly baked bread, cut into slices and baked with olives as well as a plate of sheep's milk butter and kalamata olives as an amuse bouche. Never having had sheep's milk butter, I enjoyed the light muskiness typical of sheep's milk cheeses (feta) in the seemingly light butter. In addition to the regular 3-course menu, we all decided that it would be nice to order two appetizers for the table: one was a cheese plate featuring 3 Greek cheeses - graviera, manouri and kaseri - two of which were cow's milk, the other sheep, the other appetizer was a piklia of grilled pita crisps served with a small mound each of htipi, tzatziki, taramosalata, and an eggplant dip. The cheeses were nice and interesting, and not too heavy on the palate or stomach. The piklia was particularly interesting and a bit nostalgic for me as I reminisced over my last vacation in Greece - particularly the tzatziki! It tasted authentic and freshly prepared, with a cool, sharp acidity from the yoghurt. The taramosalata was also creamy and light, and had a hint of "flavor of the sea" from the mixed-in caviar. I was also particularly impressed with the eggplant dip - it had a heady, smokey-roasted flavor that infused every aspect of the dip, and it too was also light and not heavy on the palate.

For the table, we ordered their Sauvignon Blanc Lazaridi "Magic Mountain" 2004 (Drama) bottle of wine. It too had a very clear quality, but a deeper cream color than the Lagorthi. It had a faintly sweet aroma, but distinct apricot- and peach-forward flavors with a custardy, crème brulée finish. Of course, everyone made fun of me for saying that it tasted of crème brulée - but what do they know about wine?

Following the appetizers, the attentive and helpful servers brought us our first course. I ordered their pan-seared soft shell crab (in season) over olive oil cured giant lima beans. A beautifully browned crab sat atop a small bed of bitter greens and frisée and surrounded by 4 giant white lima beans. The crab was crispy and cut easily, the shell reminding me a bit of an overly cooked egg-white sunny-side up in flavor as well as in texture. The body of the crab was thick and moist and full of the sweat crab meat and also had a distinct "sea" flavor which I have come to appreciate and adore in seafood. The lima beans were soft, trucculent and rich in flavor. My sister, a member of the party, ordered the Rock Shrimp Pizette which was prepared nicely. Thin, crispy and malleable dough, topped with a light tomato sauce, dotted with baby shrimp, and sprinkled with a light cheese and spiced with oregano and basil - it was a delicious mélànge of color, flavor and texture.

For the entrée, I ordered their t-bone veal chop with sautéed garlic broccoli rabe and fingerling potatoes. Now, I'm personally not a big veal fan, mostly because I don't like the way that it tastes, and I prefer the more matured beef, however, I was very pleased with this dish. I found it to be flavorful and complex, cooked to a medium-rare/rare doneness. The brown sauce it came coated in was not overpowering, but complimented and fused the flavors of the veal chop nicely. I also particularly enjoyed the tempered bitterness of the garlic sautéed broccoli rabe and it's texture was not mushy as it can so easily become if cooked improperly (ie: too long). I also enjoyed the small rabe florettes as they added a heaftier feel in the mouth. The fingerling potatoes were also nicely prepared. Long strips of idaho potato cut into eights, seasoned and baked to have a golden-brown exterior, and a silky smooth starchy interior.

For dessert, I ordered their citrus parfait with mango coulis. Now, I've said it before, and I'll say it again - I'm not much of a dessert person - and by no means was this dessert life altering, but it was very good. It was lightly sweet, with the exception of a small piece of candied orange peel as a garnish that had an intense, pungent, orangey sweet flavor. The parfait itself was actually very light and the mango coulis added a nice element. I did sample their warm chocolate cake, and in comparison to the one eaten at Pasta Nostra, it was much less intense, and had a softer chocolate flavor. Texturally it was silky in the middle, and moist and crumbly on the outside. I ended the evening with a decaffeinated coffee.

I thoroughly enjoyed my first Thalassa experience. The ambiance was welcoming, and comfortable - surrounded by an elegant and tasteful décor. The hosts were supremely warm and friendly - very much so in the Greek style and attitude. The servers and waitstaff were efficient and attentive when we needed them, and unobtrusive during the actual meal. We did receive the obligatory check-up to make sure we were all pleased thus-far. I was also impressed by the server's knowledge of wine, as he was able to help me narrow down my selection to the bottle that was chosen. I believe we all enjoyed our novel Greek-cuisine experience, and I would definitely recommend this place.

Friday, June 30, 2006

Pasta Nostra

Pasta Nostra
116 Washington Street - Map
South Norwalk, CT
(203) 854-9700
Pan-Italian Gourmet Cuisine

Housed in Historical SoNo (South Norwalk), Pasta Nostra is a dynamic and inviting gourmet Italian restaurant. The waitstaff and chefs are extremely friendly and helpful and you get the sense that their mission is to ensure your delighted satisfaction. What's particularly interesting about Pasta Nostra is not that the food is excellent and delightful every time, but rather that their menu changes regularly. Unfortunately, they're only open Wednesday through Saturday evenings and they are a dinner-only venue.

Upon approaching Pasta Nostra, walking along Washington Street, you get a sense of a quaint, little town. They have cute boutiques and stores along the street. Additionally, there are a number of other restaurants there as well, which appear to be trendy and interesting. And don't worry, if you're looking for some nightlife too, there are a number of bars that you can take your pick from.

As far as decor is concerned, Pasta Nostra took a minimalist, cafeteria-chic approach: tile floors, simple tables with stark white tablecloths. It's set up in an open-kitchen style configuration, which lends a fun appeal to the gourmet dining experience. They also have some interesting art pieces hung up on the walls.

However, where they lack in decor, they more than make up for in quality of service and food. Their dishes never fail to impress, even to my critical palate. On this particular occassion, I and 6 other friends patronized this restaurant so we can share in a common experience. While it's impossible to predict what they're menu will hold, rest assured that you will always find something interesting to order, and if you're not that much of an adventurous eater, there are some good ol' traditional dishes as well - let's not forget, Pasta Nostra does pasta best!

They immediately brought to the table freshly baked bread that was cut into slices, and served us small dipping bowls full of their Italy-imported extra virgin olive oil. This oil is exceptionally delicious. I have never had such flavorful olive oil prior to Pasta Nostra. It had a deep green tinge, even unusual in the higher-end extra virgin olive oils which are primarily yellow with a hint of green. The oil tasted so distinctly of olive it was remarkable. When you dip the hot slices of bread into the oil, and watch as it is absorbed into the nooks and crannies of the white cloudy flesh, painting it with a beautiful green color, you can't help but savor it's heady flavor.

To accompany our meal, I chose a bottle of their Vigneti di Foscarino Soave Classico 2003 bottle of wine. To quote Nicole, a friend and fellow diner, "The wine and the olive oil, they're having a conversation in my mouth!" The wine was served chilled, and had a clear light cream to yellow color. Mineral-rich flavors balanced out all our meals with noted grassy aromas. It was truly delightful.

I originally was interested in ordering their Melon and Prosciutto antipasti - a dish of various varieties of ripe, sweet melon with their 24 month Parma ham, however, they were out of melon, but one of the chefs suggested I order their Bresaola, Arugala, Tomato and Provolone antipasti - an appetizer that was comprised of thinly sliced air-dried beef, fresh slices of tomato, a mound of fresh arugala, and a few slices of provolone cheese. I was not disappointed with this option. The beef was sliced paper-thin, almost like prosciutto, but lacked the softness one normally finds in prosociutto. It was flavorful, light, and had a slightly sweet after taste that was pleasant. When eaten together with the provolone, I found it to be perfectly balanced with the firmness of the cheese, it's mildly sharp flavor, and the saltiness went particularly well with the bresaola. The tomato and arugala lent a wonderful texture and flavor to the combination, juicy and watery, and a hint of peppery-ness from the arugala.

Another particular antipasti dish that I found to be outrageously delicious and worthy of special note was their Citrus Tuna with Blood Oranges from Sicily. Blood oranges are a novelty to begin with, and have such a beautiful and deep purple color, that went perfectly with the raw slices of big eye tuna. This dish was seasoned with freshly chopped cilantro which not only served to beautify the dish, but lent an excellent counterbalance to the sweetness of the blood orange. Additionally, hints of cumin and garlic were prevalent in the dish, and most surprisingly - hot pepper which helped to tie all the flavors together to round them out. The presentation and flavors of this dish were delightful - and you couldn't help yourself from putting another forkful into your mouth. The smooth texture of the tuna is the first thing you notice, but then the sweetness of the blood orange envelopes your tongue, transporting along with it the savory aromas of the cumin and garlic, and then the last kick of hot pepper hits you in a not overwhelming way, but more of a novel accent.

For the entrée, I ordered the Baby Chicken with Gnocchi di Patate and Artichokes. The presentation of this dish was stunning. A whole chick, stuffed with fresh parsley was cooked to be perfectly crispy and seasoned on the outside, and juicy and tender. Aside it, there were small bit-sized pieces of tender gnocchi smothered in a parmigiano cheese sauce and topped with small chunks of roasted artichoke. The woody flavor and aroma of the artichoke went deliciously well and balanced out the smooth and milkyness of the parmigiano coated gnocchi. While the chicken was delicious, there was nothing exceptional about it. However, this dish, when savored with the wine was transformed into something else. The flavors of the chicken changed subtly to an interesting meld of flavors, almost tasting richer and more robust than alone.

I sampled the Chard Ravioli with Sicilian Tomato Sauce and that was an interesting pairing of basil garnished ravioli with the distinct chard flavors - pleasantly balanced, and the heady tang of the tomato sauce buffeted the flavors of the basil and the chard independently but to one harmoniouos end.

Dessert was a fun adventure in and of itself. I ordered the Tiramisu which was layered with mascarpone and crushed roasted hazelnuts. Texturally, it was such a fun experience, pairing the creaminess with the rough texture of crushed nuts. The flavors melded nicely, with hints of nutmeg and espresso. It was a delight. I also sampled their hot chocolate cake that was served with a scoop of vanilla gelato. It was chocolaty, creamy, and very rich - almost overwhelmingly so, but the gelato served to temper the flavors and round them out to something more manageable. I also requested their inteligentsia espresso which came served in the cutest espresso cup that was decorated with figures in dancing poses. The espresso was one of the best I've ever had - strong, dark and very bitter. It was prepared to have an appealing brown froth on top.

Overall, this experience was a fun and exciting one. We each loved sampling each other's dishes, the environment was comfortable and lax enough to allow us to be relaxed and have an overall good time. I recommend visiting this establishment for something new and delicious, and never disappointing.

Wednesday, January 25, 2006

Petrossian Paris

Petrossian Paris
182 West 58th Street - Map
Corner of 7th Avenue
New York, NY
(212) 245-2214
French-influenced Contemporary

Ahh, restaurant week in New York City. For anyone who enjoys dining out as much as I do, and lives on a budget - this is a godsend, especially when you take advantage of the affordable prix fixe lunch and dinner menus at one of New York City's premium restaurants. Although restaurant week "dictates" that prix fixe dinner's are generally $35, Petrossian Paris has an all-year long running "Theater Prix Fixe" for $35 with a slightly different menu.

Upon first approaching the corner entrance of Petrossian, housed in the Alwyn Court Building, you cross the threshold of two massive convex glass doors in a substantial black wrought-iron frame, to alight a small ascension of stairs into the main dining area. As soon as you walk in, the opulence and character of the decor is evident. The bar, directly to the right, is tastefully decorated with pink Finnish granite, lined with fixed, dark gray leather rotating stools set in front of angled art deco style mirrors (which were situated behind the bar).

My friend and I were immediately greeted by the French host, who seemed rather preoccupied and was quick to seat us more to get us out of the way than out of being hospitable. We were ushered near the back, and we chose a table in the corner. There were mirrors that lined the wall, each decorated with a Lalique crystal doe in a fleeing pose which acted as a prop for a glass platform atop which had a different bronze sculpture. In addition, the low-level lighting all melded into a harmoniously inviting environment.

The table was beautifully set with two elegantly long champagne flutes that strongly reminded me of a flower: a long thin conical stem to flare out wide near the rim. There was also a three-inch dark glass cube that housed one stemless white orchid in water and a tea candle within a egg-shaped dark glass cup. I was a little disappointed at the proximity of the various tables to each other, and I would have preferred a greater space if only to improve on the privacy of each table's conversation.

After being seated, we were presented with their regular menu, their prix fixe menu, and a wine list. Of course, we decided on the prix fixe menu, which offered a selection of three different appetizers to choose from, three entrees, and four desserts. Those of you with fickle taste, be forewarned - the prix fixe menu offers NO substitutions or additions - just eliminations. My friend and I both chose the foie gras salad with green apple, walnuts, and truffle oil, and I asked for a glass of their Chateau La Rame, La Chamille 1er Cotes de Bordeaux (2001) wine to accompany my meal (as was one of two wines that were recommended I choose from - the other was a Pinot Noir - but I felt like a Bordeaux would have been nice). The wine was mild, and had a very clean taste. Distinct flavors of apple and berry - not too dry, but perfectly tannic to balance out the creaminess of the foie gras to come.

While waiting for our appetizer to arrive, we were brought a small bowl with cold butter, and we were each given a whole wheat roll baked with poppy seeds in the dough. The bread was lacking in any kind of distinct flavor, but it was toasty and warmed the butter nicely when spread on it.

The foie gras salad was eventually brought to our table. It was beautifully composed on a square mottled-glass plate, with a shallow depth. The bed of the salad was of a light and surprisingly unbitter frisee, mixed with coarsely chopped walnuts, two or three haricot verts, and topped with an ample slice of foie gras. You could immediately smell the distinct earthy truffle scent wafting from the cold dish. We were each brought a few triangle slices of lightly toasted brioche to accompany the foie gras.

I immediately cut off a small piece of the foie gras and spread it on a slice of brioche and savored my first bite of the evening. For a moment, I was simply in heavenly bliss. The foie gras was not overwhelmingly gamey or "raw" tasting like the first time I experienced it at Blue Ribbon Brooklyn. The texture was richly sublime, rivaling some of the most creamiest of cheeses. The flavor was simply unmatched and then the last flavor to hit the taste buds was the truffle oil - a divine cacophony of flavors! The rest of the salad was exceptionally delicious as well, the sheerest whisper of truffle coated every bite with a delightful surprise of sweet green apple at the end. This dish was so rich, I simply couldn't finish it all. The wine here proved to be a perfect pairing to balance out the richness of the dish with it's light and fresh flavors.

For the entree, my friend ordered their Tamarind Glazed Atlantic Salmon which was served atop a bed of Israeli couscous with mint and toasted almonds. I was permitted a taste, and the tamarind glaze added such a heady yet tangy and exotic flavor to the meaty salmon and the al dente couscous. The fish had a beautiful browning around it but was deliciously pink inside which seemed to go so naturally with the rest of the dish.

I decided on the Roast Organic Chicken Breast which came served lying on a gruyere and rosemary polenta with a brandy mushroom sauce. The chicken was cooked to perfection - each bite sinfully moist as the one before, and the skin was crisp and added a deliciously poultry muskiness to every bite. The polenta was creamy and not grainy in the least and proved to be a wonderful counterbalance in lightness to the chicken breast. The brandy mushroom sauce tied all the flavors together, by complimenting the rosemary and gruyere flavors in the polenta with the moist muskiness of the chicken. Superb in its own right. The wine here, also proved to balance the flavors of the dish beautifully so. The cleanness of it helped to clear the palate anew for the next bite of chicken, allowing for a new experience in every bite.

For dessert, we both chose the Carmelized Apple Galette which was served with Tahitian Vanilla Ice Cream and Caramel Sauce. The plate was delightfully decorated with a small round mound of cooked apples, topped with a scoop of the vanilla ice cream, coated in ribbons of caramel sauce and finished with a light smattering of confectioner's sugar. While the vanilla ice cream seemed to be a part of the dish more for its creamy and cold texture than for its indistinct and largely absent flavor, the warmth of the caramel flavoring in the sauce with a spoonful of the almost tart but lightly sweet apple galette was interestingly good. While the overall flavor was distinctly the caramel, the flavor slowly faded on the palate simultaneously with the coldness of the ice cream to only make way for the apple which followed right after. A beautiful production in the mouth.

In conclusion, the gourmet fare here is utterly sublime. While the wait staff were not as attentive as one might expect from a restaurant of this caliber, which was disappointing - the food more than makes up for it. The ambiance was intimate, if not a little cramped, the decor tasteful without being overly pretentious - but pretentious it definitely was - and the overall experience a very pleasurable one. I highly recommend Petrossian Paris to anyone who appreciates fine dining at its best!

Monday, January 23, 2006

Henry's

Henry's
2745 Broadway - Map
Corner of West 105th St
New York, NY
(212) 866-0600
Traditional American/Bistro

I had the pleasure of lunching at Henry's this past Sunday while on a date. And as far as that goes, it is a pleasant place to go to for a date. The hostesses were pleasant, and one of them found us a table rather quickly, considering the place was full of couples, and a few families with children (all of whom were very well behaved).

The decor was clean and organized with light wooden paneling, and the light fixtures were drop lamps with red shades. Since the ceiling was high, the lamps didn't come down very far. Furthermore, the large windows along the Broadway side of the restaurant brought in a considerable amount of light on that beautifully sunny day. The overall level of noise wasn't oppressive, and one could easily carry a conversation, although eavesdropping on your neighbors' conversations wasn't difficult.

Once seated, we were presented with the menus, and we both started with a cup of coffee. When we requested skim milk, the waitress was mildly snooty about informing us that they didn't have any, but other than that, she was perfectly attentive. The coffee, I have to say, was pretty good: it balanced the right amount of aroma and bitterness that I have come to appreciate in a good cup of coffee. The milk was served warm in a small metal cream carafe, and lightly frothed. I was, however, disappointed to note their lack of sweetner selection, but I made do.

I ordered their Warm Goat Cheese Salad with Beets and Green Beans, while my date ordered their Cobb Salad. Shortly after ordering, we were brought our orders - which marks for high points in my book. My salad was beautifully composed on a bed of mesclun greens, and little beet medallions strewn about on the periphery of the bed. Pine nuts and green beans dotted the the whole nest of leaves, and it was perfectly dressed in a pomegranate balsamic vinaigrette that was not overpowering and surprisingly complimented the earthiness and sweetness of the beets. One expects pomegranates to be generally sweet, although the hint of tartness and mouthy feel added considerably to the experience. The crisp crunch of green beans added a surprisingly delicious texture to every bite.

Along the top of the plate, were three slices of baguette topped with a tablespoon of creamy goat cheese, and as per the description, was warmed to just the right consistency to prevent it from melting, but rather gave it an even creamier and smoother texture. I expected the baguettes to be toasted, but I found that the softness of the inner part of the bread was actually a more pleasant accompaniment to the cheese, when paired with the fresh crunch of the crust. I imagine that if the bread were to be toasted, it would have made for a very awkward bite.

For lunch, it was a bit pricey, but the quality of the food and of the service justifies it. If you find yourself in the Columbia University neighborhood, drop in to this pleasant venue for some good quality meals!